Strangely enough, the southwest of Hanoi is one of the least documented parts of Vietnam in terms
of motorbiking. It has been on my to-do list for years now, as I know there is great stuff out
there, but no one talks about it!
My map of the South West of Hanoi explained
.
In Purple is the route I drove, though it has
been mildly edited
to fix some detours
I think
were not worth doing.
We drove directly to Ninh Binh, one of the country's worst roads; I
explain more about that
below.
In blue,
I have marked an alternative to the Ninh Binh Road (if you are willing to skip Ninh Binh).
I have not done it before, and I hope there
really
is a ferry.
If you succeed, let me know, and I will update this.
If you are
not willing
to gamble, you can
just
follow Google Maps directly to Mai Chau instead.
I have labeled and marked the waterfalls and
caves
and also noted some of the offroad sections.
What is the South West of Hanoi
Tigit Jon enjoying a wobbly bridge
In my definition, the Southwest of Hanoi consists of the Ninh Binh, Mai Chai, Pu Luong, and Moc
Chai districts. As I discovered on this trip, the area contains many beautiful waterfalls
as well as
other activities such as hot springs, hiking, silly glass bridges, and
literally
thousands of homestays.
The best way to describe this area is like a theme park. There are so many small activities to do
in the area that you activity-hop your way around the different sites. There is a lot of
driving
to do
, but no real commitments are needed because there are so many homestays.
The only thing that has been lacking is a theme park map
to show
where all these activities are
!
Here it is!
Who is the South West of Hanoi for?
1. The person who
doesn't have enough
time for
Ha Giang or more
.
Ha Giang takes at least five days, and five days is a rush.
This area can
be done
in three to five days
, with no rush and no
commitments.
Despite how remote the journey can get
, in real life
, you are
never further than
a four-hour drive from Hanoi.
How crazy is that!
2. The romantic couple on a honeymoon.
Okay,
you don't need to be on a honeymoon, but you get the idea.
You can homestay hop, or go to hotels, whatever you like. The point is, there are so many
waterfalls, hot springs, or activities you can spend time doing together. This area doesn't have
to be about motorbikes, covering thousands of kilometers in a short space of time.
I would argue that this
is one of the few areas of Vietnam where you can activity hop without significant kilometer
commitments.
3. Finally, the person who wants to get off the tourist trail with as little effort as
possible.
Usually, escaping tourism is a battle, but here, you can find yourself in areas where the locals
have never seen a foreigner. Strange, considering how close to Hanoi it is.
Who is the South West of Hanoi not for?
Enjoying a boat
I have described what I
would
consider a beginner-friendly region for tourists wanting to motorbike around.
However, this is not
actually
the case. This region is
great
for a tourist who doesn't want to be ambitious in terms of covering kilometers and for someone who
wants to break a day up between activities and driving.
However, this
does not necessarily
make it beginner-friendly.
In reality, this region is very mountainous, beautiful, and remote.
This
means that the highways to get to this region are busy, and the country lanes are
real
country lanes. They are not maintained; they
are
full of potholes, and to make matters worse, they
are covered
with clay, which is unbelievably slippery.
The roads can randomly go from road to offroad without notice.
With
careful and cautious
planning, you can stay on
roads that are
reasonably
well maintained
, but a
small
lapse of map planning can lead you to uncomfortable off-road conditions if you are not
prepared.
Offroad is subjective, and as an Enduro guy, potholes and a bit of clay
don't cause me any problems
.
But for many, roads like this would be considered
hard
and challenging offroad and will catch people off guard. Be aware of that!
Quick plug:
Book an off-road lesson in Hanoi
. There is so much accidental off-roading in the North, and a quick lesson is very
productive.
When to go to the South West area of Hanoi
Tigit Jon getting excited
I was
so
excited about discovering this area, and I want to return to it during the rainy season!
I was driving in the dry season, and guess what? It still rained a bit! The waterfalls were
impressive, but I can only imagine what they would be like in the rainy season.
The standard email is, "What do I do if it rains, or will it rain?"
Well,
the answer is to gear up properly and drive to these waterfalls.
If the rain lowers your enjoyment of motorbiking, it will
definitely
increase your enjoyment of these waterfalls.
It appears to be a secret, but I tell everyone. Sure, rain is annoying, but Vietnam gets
a lot
prettier when it rains.
The greens go very green, and the country
just
pops with color.
I am from England and am used to the rain, but I am often confused by the fear that Tigit clients
appear to have when it comes to rain.
Anyway, the sheer quantity of homestays and hotels in this area
, combined with
the short distances between waterfalls
, makes
this the perfect region for enjoying the rain!
The rain is the right time!
We have an article that
explains the seasons in Vietnam,
so read that for accurate answers.
To go to Ninh Binh or to not go to Ninh Binh
Ninh Binh is
a very difficult
topic because the drive
to get there
from Hanoi
is so bad
.
Although it only takes around three hours, the traffic is some of the worst in the country.
The way I look at it is this:
Ninh Binh is worth
going to if you are going to stay there
and do some activities there. It is not a good idea to just pass through
Ninh Binh
as we did.
Hanoi has
a very clear
"best way in and out" of the city, which, at the time of this article, is CT 03.
It just so happens
to go
directly to the Southwest of Hanoi.
It is an excellent road to escape or enter such a massive city.
By going to Ninh Binh, you are throwing away the use of the CT03 road and instead hitting a very
nasty Ql1A.
I suggest you do
this loop anti-clockwise, leaving Ninh Binh as an optional extra at the end.
Start with Mai Chau or Pu Luong and circle
around
this way, ending with Ninh Binh if you want to.
This
also coincides with splashing out on fancy accommodation in Ninh Binh for your final days in
Vietnam.
My recommended route
Asking for a recommended route for this region is like asking for a recommended route around a
theme park.
I can do it, but it's
not
the way
you should travel here.
I have a map where I labeled the areas and the waterfalls and attempted to mark the offroad
sections.
Follow my route loosely, and go here with an open mind to explore yourself. Remember that you are
always close to Hanoi, so you don't need to worry about timing!
A key
tip is to read the descriptions in the markers I provide on the map.
The following route
is
not recommended
, as we were on a business trip to cover as much tarmac as possible and see as many sights as
possible, but here it is.
Day 1: Hanoi through Ninh Binh to finish in Mai Chau.
Day 2: Mai Chau through Pu Luong
,
and back through Pu Luong to Mai Chau again.
Day 3: Mai Chau to Moc Chau to finish in Phu Yen
Day 4: Phu Yen back to Hanoi
What is the
right
motorbike for the South West of Hanoi?
Bigger is not always better!
It is almost a strange question, but it was at the front of my mind on this trip.
I was on a Honda CB 500x, and Giang, the Tigit guide, was on a Honda XR 150. The more I drive
motorbikes, the more I realize that the motorbike must fit the driving style of the terrain.
The CB 500x excels at open, meandering, hilly roads. I did not enjoy the hairpin, mountain roads,
or country lanes on this bike.
The roads I enjoyed the most on this trip were the main highways, as I could open the throttle
and calve the big bike around the hilly corners, overtaking traffic.
The tarmac quality and traction are also
very important
on a big bike. Clay is brutal on ADV motorbikes.
I did not enjoy the small country lanes, which
were smashed
with potholes and clay. ABS does not work offroad, the CB 500x is heavy, and the constant
turning of lefts and rights gets
very
tiring over a day.
In reality
, for most of this journey
, I hardly left gear two.
Not to mention, every time we hit offroad, I was in serious trouble.
There is no doubt in my mind
that I would have had a lot more fun on the Honda Blade semi-automatic.
I love hammering and revving small engines; it is a lot of fun. They can also go on any terrain in
a fun and non-serious way.
Finally, when you hit that moment of pure spectacular beauty, you are on the right bike, at the
right speed, to take it all in.
As always, Giang, the Tigit guide, is very comfortable on the Honda XR 150 in all terrain, and
this motorbike type is a mighty fine choice as well.
If you have two people on one motorbike, I highly recommend the Honda XR 150 over the CB 500x in
this region of Vietnam. You probably won't understand why, but trust me.
Finally, if you rent an adventure bike for this part of Vietnam, you must have some skill behind
the wheel, and if you have two people on the bike, drive very slowly.
Vietnamese tourism, public holidays, and weekends
Just because this region is unknown in the Western market does not mean it is unknown in the
Vietnamese market. These attractions and waterfalls
are set up
waiting for mass Vietnamese tourism.
Karaoke and beer drinking are very
normal
in Vietnamese travel.
I am not saying what is right and
what is
wrong, but Vietnamese tend to travel
in a very different way
from foreigners.
I was here on weekdays, which was fantastic, but I am sure this region will
be slammed
with drunk Karaoke pop stars at weekends.
To get the deeply feeling of the place,
I think
it is
very important
to avoid weekends and not travel here at all if it is a Vietnamese public holiday.
My highlight of the journey
I love waterfalls!
The entire drive was a highlight.
There were even some roads that Tigit Giang referred to as looking like Ha Giang, which is
not bad
for somewhere so close to Hanoi.
Pu Luong as a place always amazes me. I would love to spend a week there properly discovering it.
The area is much bigger than I had realized.
In fact,
I have now split it
into Pu Luong A and Pu Luong B, which I might implement
in
future articles and content.
It isn't a singular place like I first thought.
However, the star of the show for me was the "Thac Nang Tien" waterfall. It is funny because my
original mapping and research had missed it. The heavens opened, and it rained hard,Giang and I
got split up. I stopped at the side of the road and started looking at Google Maps. I saw this
waterfall nearby, and when we found each other again, we went to it. It turned out to be my
favorite waterfall of the trip!
All the waterfalls and caves I visited described
Keep
in mind
I traveled here in
dry
season, which is the wrong time!
Thác Chiềng Khoa
Providing you have the skill to drive down a very steep slope to get to this waterfall, there is
no walking involved, making this a quick and easy waterfall to visit.
However, many people will
struggle
with this drive down, and most locals are walking.
It was a waterfall well set
up for a quick picture, but beyond that, there was nothing special about this place. Overall, it
was quite nice!
Thác Nàng Tiên
I love waterfalls!
This waterfall was my favorite on the trip in terms of beauty. It had Karaoke, swimming areas,
and
then
a rough 15-minute walk to the main waterfall. Spending half a day or more in this place would be
easy.
I imagine it gets very busy during the holiday seasons, but overall, the place was a nice balance
of touristy without being overly touristy. I enjoyed the design and layout of this place. I highly
recommend it!
Thác Dải Yếm
This waterfall is a huge tourist site aimed at mass Vietnamese-style picture-taking
tourism.
However, unlike some of these concrete abominations of natural destruction, this one
is
relatively
tastefully done
and I
do
actually
recommend it.
It is a short walk to a stream of love, then a waterfall, and then a glass bridge of love. The
glass bridge cost an extra 100,000vnd which I didn't want to spend.
Overall, for a playful hour or two, this place is alright.
Đỉnh Pha Luông
I didn't make it to this place, but it was one of the
key
attractions I wanted to see on this trip. In the end, we ran out of time. It is at least a
three-hour detour in a pointless direction, and Google reviews suggest it takes another three
hours to hike.
Further
to this
, it looks like you might need a special permission slip to do it.
In the end
, I had to scrap the concept, but I would love it if someone succeeded and gave me
feedback!
Thác Tạt Nàng
This waterfall
was
clearly
impacted
by the wrong season. It
is set up
with
an infrastructure for charging for tickets and quite a large parking area. However, when we were
there, there was no soul on the property; we got in for free. Because of this, we could drive our
motorbikes straight to the waterfall, which meant no walking.
This
is
a nice
place for a quick stop, and I imagine it is booming and spectacular in the right season.
Gò Lào Waterfall
This waterfall is extremely close to Mai Chau, where many tourists
will
stop for a hotel. Due to this, it is a key attraction that many of our customers should
be doing
.
There was one parking guy on the side of the road to look after your vehicle, and it was about a
10-minute walk down a hill to get to the waterfall. It was not
really
a tourist site; it was a natural.
We were there around
8 a.m.
, and Vietnamese teenagers were already enjoying the site, which was nice
to see
.
I don't think I would
be
waterfall hunting at
8
am
when I was sixteen!
We were just hammering through, but I think this waterfall is a must-see for anyone in the
area.
Hang Dơi (cave)
Smack in the middle of Moc Chau; this cave is easy to reach if you are in the area. Whether to go
or not is a difficult choice.
It is around a fifteen-minute walk up a cliff, and then the cave
itself
is full of religious material, which is a bit of a
vibe killer
.
In Vietnam, we are very spoilt for caves, so I have lost my bearings a bit when it comes to cave
quality. This cave is okay, but nothing special.
If you want to spend one hour doing something other than driving, this cave is worth a stop.
Apart from that, it is nothing special.
Hang Dơi Kho Mường (cave)
The cave is very close to one of the main homestay areas of Pu Luong. It was the best cave on the
trip and is worth a visit. It takes around fifteen minutes to walk to the cave. You stand at the
top of the cave and can look deep into the darkness; it is an impressive sight.
It is possible to walk into the cave as
a full
circle loop, and
I guess
it would take around one hour to do so.
We opted not to walk around the cave. This cave is a must-see if you are in the area.
Hieu Falls waterfall
This
was a classic beer-drinking karaoke hotspot. I enjoyed checking it out as a quick stop, but
Giang, the Tigit guide, seemed to be
fairly
disgusted by it.
The signposting of where the waterfall is
was very confusing
.
He explained to me it was done on purpose, as the karaoke places put
up
signs in the wrong places to trick tourists into accidentally walking into their bars.
From my perspective, we
were just lost
, and I put it down to the usual useless directions we get in Vietnam; from his perspective, he
felt tricked and annoyed.
Either way
, for a quick stop and a
coke
, this
isn't
a
bad
one to go to.
Dan Waterfall
Bigger is not always better!
This waterfall looked like
it was set up
for a medium flow of tourism, but when we were there, it
was abandoned
. It was an impressive site, but a waterfall that definitely would have benefited from it being
in the rainy season. You can drive your motorbike right up to the waterfall, which
make
it a quick and easy photo stop.
Mây waterfall
This
was one of the first waterfalls we saw on our journey, and it struck me as beautiful.
It was another mass Vietnamese tourism beer-drinking Karaoke hot spot, and even at
3
pm
on a weekday,
it had locals singing
away their problems to this amazing natural beauty.
It was tastefully done
, though, and had a lot of local character.
Writing about beer and Karaoke can be seen in two ways: on the one hand, it destroys the calm of
once an amazing natural beauty, but on the other hand, it shows off the friendly, happy community
culture this country has to offer. I liked this place, and I had some fun taking photos with the
local girls and
also
politely refusing to sing with some drunk men. It is all part of the Vietnam experience! As of
now, I guess this is why I don't have a photo, as all the pictures I took were on other peoples
phones, not my own! WOops.
This road, in general,
that
the waterfall is located
on
, is full of picture-taking coffee/
beer drinking
establishments that follow a beautiful river.
Hang Con Moong Cave
This cave is not worth stopping at. There is nothing to see or do here; drive on by!
Bach Long Glass Bridge
I didn't go to this bridge on this trip, but I have been before.
I rarely
one star
review places, but this one got the wrath of my negativity. It is a pointless glass bridge
overlooking a construction site. The project clearly isn't finished and I guess has run out of
money.
The entrance fee was
large
as well
, and this bridge
is
everything wrong with tourism in Vietnam.